Bullet Molds--General Information and Product Data


Mold Body:

    We use two types of mold bodies --


      This is a very hard alloy used for high speed gears. It has excellent machining characteristics and is very durable.
      This is a very dense, free machining cast iron alloy. The sharp edges formed by the design of the cherry will not deteriorate as some cast iron will. Add $25.00 to the cost of the mold.
Alignment pins:
    The pins are made of hardened and ground tool steel. The alignment sockets are made of stainless steel. They are pressed and staked into the mold body and then line bored for perfect alignment.
Sprue plates:
    Sprue plates are made of 3/16" steel which are ground and then stress relieved.
Magma Molds:
    NEI designs cut in original Magma blocks. Available set of 8 or singles.
Ballisti-Cast Molds:
    NEI designs cut for Ballisti-Cast casting machines.
Mold Handles:
    All the molds are designed to fit RCBS handles. NEW! Handles modified with spring plungers for aligning multiple cavity molds (works even better than Walt thought it would). Prevents damage to mold face due to pins not striking sockets.
Top punches:
    RCBS, Lyman, Star and Saeco. Punches are cut with the same cherry as the bullet cavity and match exactly. Molds are cherry cut resulting in accurate multiple cavity molds.
Cast diameters are .002 to .003 larger than the listed diameter. Molds can be cut without the gas check or shortened by any number of grease grooves. Molds in 1, 2, 3, 4, 6 cavities; may have different bullets (close in diameter) in the same mold or different weights of the same bullet in one mold.

Sprue Plate Lube:
    A silicon die lubricant, water soluble, quick drying. Will prevent galling.
Mold Prep:
    Graphite suspension used in industry for forming thermal barrier. Use in the cavities and as rust preventative on iron and steel molds. Not necessary for aluminum molds.


Finest quality used in industrial foundries.


Things to consider when ordering a mold

CF Rifles & Auto Pistols: Always size the bullets to at least .001 to .002 over groove size. If you have a modern piece made in the US / Japan, SAAMI standards for the bore/groove are usually met and slugging the barrel is not necessary. If your piece is made in Europe or South America, I would suggest that the barrel be slugged by a competent gunsmith to insure bore/groove measurements. This also goes for old antique arms. A bullet that is a frog hair under groove size will lead like crazy. Leading is caused by gas leaking past the bullet and acting like a oxyacetylene torch cutting steel. In this case, linotype bullets will lead faster because they won't obturate and seal as a soft bullet would. The vaporized lead is then blown forward of the bullet and then smeared into the wall of the barrel by the passing bullet. Now you have a real problem!

Revolvers: The chamber mouth of the cylinder dictates the size of the bullet, not the groove size of the barrel! The bullet must be sized for a tight push fit through the cylinder. Example: Some 44s have a groove size of .429 and the cylinder mouths are .432 or more. In this example, size the bullet to .432+ and don't worry when the big light hits the bullet, it will fit the barrel!! If the mouth of the cylinder is smaller than the groove size of the barrel, the pistol will never shoot worth a hoot. Send it back to the factory or have it reamed to .001" over groove size. Remember a hard linotype bullet will lead faster if it doesn't fit.

Muzzle Loaders: Maxi balls are a two dimensional bullet. The front band of the bullet is usually .004" over bore size and the back bands are bore size or a couple thousands smaller. Remember US made are usually cut to SAAMI standards, but don't bet on that Italian or Brazil piece to be standard. Slug it!!

Paper Patch: Get the book THE PAPER JACKET by Paul Matthews published by Wolfe Publishing (602) 445-7810. This will answer most of your questions about paper patching (and a lot more.) This type of bullet is a real pain in the posterior, but the results can be rewarding if done correctly.


  • Bore: This is the dimension that the barrel stock was drilled and reamed.
  • Groove: This is the major dimension which is cut or displaced by the rifling broach or button.
  • Example: A standard 30 calibre is bored to .300" and the grooves are cut .004" deep to make the groove size .308". Not all barrels are rifled the same. They may vary in depth from .002" to .006" deep, depending on the calibre and the manufacture's design. If you have a foreign make or antique piece, have it slugged.
  • Tech Note: Bullet lubricants are really not a 'lubricant' as you may think of a bearing lube. Leading is caused by the vaporization of lead by hot gasses, usually leaking past the side of the projectile and then being smeared on the side of the barrel by the projectile. The 'lube' only prevents the vaporized lead from tinning the steel barrel. The properties of the 'lube' therefore must be opposite that of a tinning flux. It also must help seal the projectile to the barrel either as a solid or a semi-solid under heat and pressure. There is a lot of 'stuff' out there and we're still looking. Let us know if you have an idea for some 'good stuff'.

    (Here is another piece of government BS instituted by pin heads)
    Using this equipment in poorly ventilated areas, cleaning firearms, or handling bullets or ammunition may result in exposure to lead, a substance known to cause birth defects, cancer, reproductive harm, and other serious physical injury. Have adequate ventilation at all times. Wash hands and face thoroughly after handling and before coming into contact with food, chewing material, and smoking material.


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